Japan | Biketour Journal from Fukuoka to Tokyo

Intro

Embarking on a bike journey across Japan isn’t just about cycling; it’s about diving deep into a culture that’s both ancient and modern, serene and bustling, and always breathtaking. From the energetic streets of Tokyo to the peaceful temples of Nara, every turn on my bike unraveled a new adventure - one of cultural immersion, personal growth, and unforgettable encounters. This is my bike touring journal, sharing my experiences cycling through Japan, from snowy mountain peaks to vibrant cityscapes.

Recap of week 137 to 147

Over the past few weeks, my journey through Japan has taken me through bustling cities and serene countryside, each day filled with discoveries. Shortly after leaving Fukuoka I cycled a long underwater pedestrian tunnel to Shimonoseki, and then onwards to Hiroshima to shed heartfelt tears over a dark chapter of human history. Some quick island hopping brought me to the Shimanami Kaido Cycling Road, which has some of the longest and highest bridges I've ever cycled. A quick crossing of Shikoku island ended with me gazing down upon the Naruto whirlpools before ferrying over to the mainland to explore the vibrant streets of Osaka, where the city's neon lights and street food culture captivated my senses. Then, I cycled through Nara, known for its ancient temples and friendly deer, offering a peaceful contrast to the urban energy of Osaka. 

My route led me to Kyoto, a city steeped in tradition, where I spent several days walking through its lush gardens and historic shrines, immersing myself in the tranquil beauty of the city. Along the way, I encountered the rich culture of Japanese tea ceremonies, sampled the exquisite flavors of local cuisine, and had countless memorable conversations with locals. Each interaction added depth to my experience, whether it was staying with warmshowers hosts, learning about local crafts, or just sharing a cup of tea with a stranger. 

As I reached the coast, the sight of Mount Fuji was breathtaking. From there it was a short ride into Tokyo, one of the largest cities on earth. Here I took a long city escape break to get into every nook and cranny of this metropolis. Nara, the airport city, was only a day’s ride away, which marked the ending of my bike tour across Japan and the beginning of a whole new continent on the other side of the ocean.

Fukuoka: First impressions of Japan

Arriving in Fukuoka on the 25th of January 2024, I could feel the energy of Japan immediately. The ferry from South Korea had been smooth, but stepping onto Japanese soil was a fresh rush of excitement. Fukuoka’s bright lights, buzzing streets, a 25 meter tall Gundam statue, mouthwatering ramen and the ever present vending machines welcomed me, offering a blend of traditional Japanese charm and modern urban life. I began my cycling journey by taking in the surroundings—wide avenues, parks, and distinct districts that seemed to offer a perfect first taste of the country.

Fukuoka's coastal charm was undeniable. As I cycled along the coastline, the smell of the salty sea air mixed with the city’s scent of street food—takoyaki stalls, steaming bowls of ramen, and the faint scent of grilled eel. I took time to explore the famous Ohori Park, a serene escape right in the heart of the city. The large lake surrounded by trees and bridges gave a peaceful contrast to the bustling city streets. I also wandered around the lively Nakasu district, where traditional Japanese buildings coexist with modern shops and restaurants. I made it a goal to try every version of ramen at Fukuoka Ramen Stadium before continuing my journey.

Hiroshima: Dark history and personal reflection in a modern city

Cycling into Hiroshima after leaving Fukuoka felt like entering a different world. Hiroshima had an emotional pull—its resilience in the face of tragedy, yet a beautiful and vibrant city today. I first visited the Peace Memorial Park, a tranquil space that commemorates the victims of the atomic bomb. The Atomic Bomb Dome stood as a solemn reminder of the past, but around it, the city had rebuilt itself into something full of life and spirit. I spent several hours reflecting in the park, the sounds of birds and distant chatter of people a striking contrast to the horrors of the past.

Exploring the city itself was a mix of history and modernity. Hiroshima Castle stood proudly, offering incredible views from its observation deck. I spent a day wandering around the outskirts of the city, admiring the peaceful rural landscapes just outside of the bustling urban center. Miyajima Island, with its sacred floating torii gate and tranquil atmosphere, was the perfect escape. Cycling around the island’s quiet streets, I stopped to take in the beauty of the island’s lush greenery and the solemn presence of its shrines and temples.

After Hiroshima, I did some island hopping, taking small ferries that connected charming islands, cycled over tall and long bridges, following the Shimanami Kaido Cycling Road. On these small islands, I got the opportunity to escape some of the city bustle, camping on quiet beaches watching sunsets and sipping warm ramen soup were some of my best nature moments and experiences from my trip across Japan.

Sadly, I got hit with days on end with rain when I reached Shikoku Island, which dampened both my spirit and the soggy sleeping bag didn’t help either. I waited several days for some good weather to enjoy the mountain passes and coastal stretches but I ended up shortcutting across the islands instead of cycling the entire southern route. From what short moments I had when the clouds broke away and the rain stopped, I could see how gorgeous this part of the island is. A lot more quiet than the busy northern side and I wished I had the determination to stay longer, but the promise of a warm and dry bed in Osaka was too big a temptation. I pedaled fast along the coast from Muroto to Naruto, where I saw the dazzling whirlpools that had been some sort of inspiration for a certain manga/anime series.

I ferried over to the mainland and spent a long day with non-stop traffic lights before finally arriving in Osaka.

Osaka: A neon bonanza and culinary delights

Osaka was a whirlwind of energy much like the whirlpools of Naruto. Arriving in the city, I immediately felt the pulse of the urban landscape - very different from Kyoto’s quiet, serene atmosphere which I would experience later on. Dotonbori was the first district I visited, and it immediately captivated me with its bright lights, the sound of chatter and music filling the air. Neon signs in every direction shouted for attention, while street food vendors beckoned passersby to sample their fare. The air was thick with the scent of takoyaki (octopus-filled dumplings), okonomiyaki (Japanese savory pancakes), and kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers).

I got lost through narrow alleyways lined with local eateries, each offering new flavors. In the evenings, I returned to the food streets, trying various types of ramen, tempura, and gyoza, often accompanied by a cold Asahi beer. But it wasn’t just the food that made Osaka unforgettable—it was the infectious energy of the city itself. It felt like the city never slept, with constant movement, noise, and light, even late into the night.

Nara: Big temples, ancient culture, and the famous deer

After the hustle and bustle of Osaka, Nara offered a peaceful contrast. The small city, known for its ancient temples and friendly deer, was a perfect destination to recharge. I walked leisurely around Nara Park, where the free-roaming deer seemed to embody the calm spirit of the city. These gentle creatures wandered through the park, interacting with visitors and posing for pictures. I enjoyed sitting by the pond, watching the deer graze while reflecting on the journey so far.

The centerpiece of Nara is Todai-ji, the massive wooden temple housing the Great Buddha statue, one of the largest bronze statues in the world. As I wandered through the temple’s massive hall, I couldn’t help but be humbled by the sense of history and reverence. After visiting the temple, I went down quieter streets, walking through peaceful gardens and stopping at small shrines along the way.

Kyoto was just a short ride away. I knew from the beginning of my tour across this country that I would spend longer periods in these iconic cities of Japan. So next up some more city exploring. 

Kyoto: Temples, traditions, and tranquility

Kyoto was everything I had imagined and then some. As I cycled through the city, I was constantly drawn into its historic atmosphere. Kyoto felt like a time capsule, with its ancient temples, beautiful gardens, and tranquil streets lined with traditional wooden houses. I spent hours wandering around the golden Kinkaku-ji, its shimmering reflection in the pond a sight I’ll never forget. The Zen gardens of Ryoan-ji offered a peaceful respite, and I found myself sitting for a while just taking in the simplicity of the rock arrangement, reflecting on the peacefulness that Kyoto embodied.

As I walked through the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, I was in awe of the towering bamboo stalks surrounding me, their soft rustling creating a serene melody. The day was crisp, and I stopped for tea at a small teahouse overlooking the Tenryu-ji Temple’s garden. Kyoto’s spiritual aura was everywhere, from the quiet shrines hidden in the back streets to the colorful, vibrant Kiyomizu-dera temple perched high on a hill, offering stunning views over the city.

One of the most surreal experiences was walking through the thousand vermilion torii gates at Fushimi Inari Taisha. The path winds up Mount Inari, and as I ascended, the crowds thinned, leaving me in near solitude among the endless tunnels of gates. The bright orange pillars contrasted beautifully with the lush greenery around them, creating a dreamlike atmosphere. These gates, each donated by individuals or businesses as offerings for prosperity, symbolize a spiritual journey toward enlightenment. Fushimi Inari is dedicated to Inari, the Shinto god of rice, fertility, and business success, and fox statues - believed to be his messengers - are scattered throughout the shrine grounds. The hike to the summit took around two hours, and reaching the top felt like stepping into a hidden world, far from the bustling shrine entrance. The view from the peak, though partially obscured by trees, made the climb feel all the more rewarding - a quiet, sacred space above the city.

Nakasendo Trail: Mountain Passes, Historic Postal Towns, and the Magic of Mount Fuji

Leaving Kyoto behind, I set my sights on the majestic Mount Fuji. This part of the journey was both physically demanding and mentally rewarding. As I cycled through the rolling hills, the cold mountain air mixed with the exhilarating feeling of pushing through steep inclines. Japan’s rural landscape, with its dense forests and distant peaks, made me feel a sense of isolation and freedom.

Along the way, I passed through picturesque mountain villages that felt frozen in time. Two of the most famous were Magome and Tsumago, former postal towns on the historic Nakasendo Trail, which once connected Kyoto to Edo (modern-day Tokyo). During the Edo period, these towns served as vital rest stops for travelers, merchants, and samurai making the long journey between the two cities. Today, they preserve their old-world charm with beautifully restored wooden inns, cobblestone streets, and the absence of power lines, keeping the illusion of stepping back in time intact. I followed the Nakasendo Trail for part of my route, weaving through misty forests and narrow mountain passes, before eventually diverting down toward the coast and Mount Fuji.

Finding a level spot to camp was a challenge in the mountainous terrain, so I often ended up pitching my tent on football fields—empty and perfectly flat, making for ideal camping spots. Since I was traveling just before spring, the higher elevations were still blanketed in snow. Cycling through snowy roads early spring was a stark contrast to the warmer south of Japan, where everything was level with the ocean. The crisp air and quiet, frost-covered landscapes gave this part of the ride a completely different atmosphere, making me appreciate the seasonal shift as I moved northward.

Arriving at Mount Fuji was an awe-inspiring moment. The iconic mountain stood tall in the distance, shrouded in mist. The landscape around it was dotted with small villages and scenic lakes, each offering a different perspective of the mountain. I cycled around the base of the mountain, feeling the power of the place. The trails near the mountain were peaceful and quiet, with few people around this time of year. The crisp mountain air was invigorating, and I took several moments to appreciate the stillness, which felt like a contrast to the vibrant energy of the cities I had visited earlier.

As I made my way toward Tokyo, the terrain began to level out, and the environment shifted from rugged mountains to sprawling urban landscapes. Tokyo was now within reach, and I felt a mixture of excitement and anticipation for the final leg of my journey. The challenge of the mountains had left me feeling accomplished, and I was ready for the bustling energy of Japan’s capital.

Tokyo: The final chapter of my journey

Tokyo was everything I had hoped for—a massive metropolis brimming with life and innovation. As I cycled through the city, which I spent a whole day doing without even crossing it fully, I marveled at the modern cityscape, the vibrant neighborhoods, and the endless sea of people. My hostel was on the other side of the city center, so I spent my first day in the city getting an idea of just how massive this city of cities really is.

Tokyo was a city that never seemed to run out of things to discover, and I gladly surrendered to its endless energy. I spent hours wandering through manga shops, flipping through well-worn pages of classics and marveling at the sheer volume of niche genres available. My curiosity led me to Akihabara, Tokyo’s famous tech town, where blinking neon lights and towering billboards advertised everything from high-end gadgets to retro gaming consoles. It was a sensory overload in the best way possible.

At some point, I decided to fully embrace Tokyo’s quirkier side and stepped into a maid café, unsure of what to expect. The surreal experience of being served by overly cheerful waitresses in frilly costumes, who spoke in a high-pitched singsong and drew cute animals in my coffee foam, was both amusing and strangely endearing. It was one of those uniquely Japanese moments that you just have to experience at least once.

Navigating Tokyo’s vast underground train stations proved to be an adventure in itself. The sprawling network of tunnels and passageways felt like a labyrinth, and I lost count of how many times I took a wrong turn. But getting lost often led to the best discoveries—hidden ramen spots and quaint little shops. I made it a personal mission to sample as many bowls of ramen as I could, hitting up famous chains like Ichiran and Ippudo, each offering its own signature take on Japan’s beloved noodle dish.

Shinjuku Golden Gai provided a stark contrast to the city’s modern sheen. The cluster of tiny, dimly lit bars oozed character, their walls lined with old posters and shelves stacked with bottles of sake. I found myself nursing a beer in a space so small that it barely fit a handful of guests, sharing stories with locals and fellow travelers alike. It was the kind of place where time slowed down, and the conversations were as rich as the drinks.

Between all the urban chaos, Tokyo also had its quiet moments. I spent afternoons in its parks, watching the first hints of cherry blossoms appear on the trees, a delicate promise of spring. Long walks along the city’s rivers became a daily ritual, the shimmering reflections of Tokyo’s skyline dancing on the water as I let my mind wander. One night, I watched the lights play across the towering structure of Tokyo Skytree, a mesmerizing display that felt like the city’s heartbeat pulsing into the sky.

In the midst of it all, I managed to get my bike serviced at a local shop, where the mechanics were meticulous and efficient, treating my beloved travel partner with the same precision and care that seemed to define everything in this city. And, of course, I couldn’t resist the thrill of Tokyo’s famous vending machines, spending far too many coins trying to win capsule toys - gachapon, as they are called - each one a tiny, unexpected surprise.

Amidst the towering cityscape, I also had the surreal experience of seeing Godzilla looming over me from the top of a building in Shinjuku. Standing beneath the massive reptilian icon, I couldn’t help but marvel at how seamlessly Tokyo blended its pop culture obsessions into everyday life. And then there was the 3D cat - a mesmerizing digital feline that seemed to leap out of a giant screen near one of the city’s busiest train stations. Watching it stretch, yawn, and playfully peek over the edge of the display was both futuristic and oddly lifelike, a perfect encapsulation of Tokyo’s ability to surprise and delight at every turn.

Tokyo was more than just a stop on my journey; it was an experience that unfolded in layers, a place where every street, every shop, and every moment carried a story waiting to be lived.

Narita: The airport city and the end of one adventure and the beginning of a new one

From Tokyo, I had a day’s ride to Narita, where I spent a few days sorting out the final details before flying to the United States. I needed to find a bike box, get a much-needed haircut, and make sure everything was in order for the next leg of my journey. Once I landed in Los Angeles, there would be no time to waste - I’d be hitting the road right away for my coast-to-coast ride across my last continent on my around the world journey.

Japan had been a journey of contrasts - steep mountain climbs and fast city streets, quiet temple towns and neon-lit skylines. The country had challenged me, amazed me, and left me with memories I would never forget. But the road was calling again, and as I packed up.

Want to know how I finally get to the end of the line of my world bike tour? Then read my last two journals from USA: “Across America on Two Wheels”.